Sunday, August 14, 2016

New folders on Aliexpress

(Seller's pics)

Zieba G-2 Skyline folder copy with ZDP189
 blade and front flipper opening:
Real Japanese ZDP189 blade (hardness 65 HRC):
You can buy the Zieba G-2 on Aliexpress:

Because of a stupid rule of Aliexpress the sellers are forced to photoshop the locking mechanism on the folders. So don't worry these folders come with solid frame-locks!

New Kevin John Venom 2 with M390 blade
(the "blood groove" is photoshopped):
You can buy the Venom 2 with M390 blade on Aliexpress: ***HERE***

Compact titanium frame lock folder with CF inlay:
You can buy it on Aliexpress: ***HERE***

New Large Sebenza 24 copy with improved washers:
You can buy the Large Sebenza on Aliexpress:

Coin Claw keychain folders:

You can buy the Coin Claws folders on Aliexpress:

 ***HERE*** or ***HERE*** or ***HERE***

Coin Claw exclusive titanium version with D2 blade:

You can buy the Coin Claw on Aliexpress: ***HERE***


  1. The new ZT0456 looks fantastic. I miss getting new flippers now and then :(

    1. I have the cheaper G10 version in the mail but I'm afraid I'll end up ordering the titanium version too as I read many positive feedbacks about it.

    2. I think that will be my next purchase... The 0456 in titanium

    3. I have it... It's one of my favourite knives of all my collection. Not light but smooth and compact and tight. A great piece.

  2. Goodness, I really love that Zieba one, is that a copy of a custom knife or something? And that Spyderco design is very neat, too.
    Not that I'd buy one of those but the Zieba is very close to the Boker Urban Trapper, don't know which one is on top though...
    I'm glad that you show a large Sebenza, if it was the small one there were 3 knives I can only look at ;)

  3. The Zieba is a copy of a G2 made by Michael Zieba

    1. Yes, I was googling a bit yesterday and it's quite interesting.
      If they'd say it's an 8Cr13MoV or AUS-8 blade I'd still buy it, it's more of a gent's knife anyways, but then for maybe $50.

  4. I would buy the Zieba but I don't believe it is actually ZDP189.

  5. I'm just sooooo weeeeakkk. I did order both the Zieba G2 and the claw... I'll report when I get them!

    1. Here is my Coin Claw next to my Nitecore Tube keychain light. I'll upload my review soon.

      I look forward to your first impressions about the Zieba. I'm still resisting to buy one! :)

    2. The claw looks really neat. And as often... you've picked the same finish/model as I did! I'll sure let you know about the Zieba!

  6. Do you have a clue how it comes that in your second link of the Sebenza the small one is more expensive than the large version?

    And yes, buy a Zieba and show us "real life pictures", maybe then I can resist better ;)

    1. The smaller Sebenza is a Kevin John version with real S35VN blade.

    2. Hmm, I really like that one, it's like a rich man's SRM 710 :P
      Maybe later...

  7. Anyone got the Zieba clone already?

    1. You should buy one and compare its blade to your Caly 3! ;)

    2. Good idea. Just got a bill from the tax department which told me that I misunderstood their latest letter, giving me half a monthly income to pay till the end of the year.
      I think I will be fine without a new toy till next year, have to be, or must concentrate on my modding stuff.
      I just ground down a Ganzo G710's blade and I got some 4mm magnets to put into my PPC Occam Cocobolo friction folder ;)

    3. Same here I'd like to try ZDP189 but I can't justify $85 for a new folder at the moment.
      Do you have any links to your recent mods?


      This way it's somewhat chronological, the most recent being on top.

    5. Thanks a lot, I'll browse them too!

    6. I've received the Zieba G2 clone today. Well put together, very smooth, superb finish, and a sharp but not that sharp blade... I'll see how it holds to the test of time! For the moment, I'm very happy with the looks, simplicity, and perfect "pocketability".

    7. Congratulations! :)
      Have you tried to sharpen it yet?

    8. Not yet. Don't really know if I will anytime soon, though, as the thing seems sharper than initially (probably some residual oils on the edge). We'll see when it needs resharpening, as I'm not too keen on sharpening already very sharp blades that I might "ruin" ;)

  8. You're welcome. Feel free to tell me anything you think, what you like, what not, recommendations etc... ;)

    1. My favourites are the Enlan El01 with CF scales, the Enlan M021 with blue scales, the RAT2 with CF scales and the higonokami with that clever leather cover.

      I don't like the acid washed finish of your Caly 3. I prefer the original finish of the blade.

    2. Guess what, I just polished the Caly's blade yesterday on the big wheel and finished it today with a dremel tool.
      There were no pictures to find of that stonewashed laminated blade so I had to try it ;) But yeah, I prefer the Japanese style when it's about damascus blades, polished instead of that black etched style.

      But yeah, the EL-01D and the M021's scales were made with the same reason, to see how it would turn out, simple cf scales are a bit boring to me :P

      I still have a Sanrenmu 9051 laying around. I thought it could be a tip-up M1 but it's far away from the really nice M1, esp. after I made it tip-up myself. Not sure if I want to make such a combined cf scale for it.
      I also got some scottish tartan fabric and I'll try to make Micarta from it.

      Oh, and I'm glad you like the blue glass fiber on the M021.
      The knife is really nice and it could be a replacement of the famous SRM 710/7010 if they would make them with anodized aluminum scales and no plastic washers. After I polished away some of the acrylic from the glass fiber with a scotchpad and metal polish the surface is much nicer and offers more grip, I just wish it was a bit darker. Yeah, something's never right :P

    3. After seeing your modded M021 I'm plannig to get one for modding too! :)

      Don't worry as I see you're very close to a perfect result. You need only a couple of mods to practice. :)

    4. Yeah, always when I finish a mod I feel like it was the piece of practice and now I'd need a second one to make it right :P
      But I must admit I'm quite pleased with the last scales for the Enlan EL-01D, finished within a bit more than 2 weeks and no major flaws, except of rounding the cf a bit too much in the front area, exposing the layer of glass fiber. I hope my co-worker brings something nice from his holidays :P

    5. It's always trickier to work with leftover materials than brand new sheets. You can consider it as a training process. If you get to that point when you can use brand new sheets of CF for example you'll feel all of the scale making process as a piece of cake compared to the early times. :)

    6. Oh, the cf is no problem, I use rests (or cut it from the plate when the boss is not looking), sometimes I glue 2 together if I need it thicker. The problem was first the positioning of the holes, I think I learned most of the lessons now, but even more other hardware when it's about etching/stonewashing or drilling new holes for clips or even turning assisted knives (Leek/Cryo) into manual folders by drilling a detent hole.
      If a scale is bad I can throw it away and make it again, if the knife's hardware is damaged I can try to make something new of it or well, throw it away :P

      My worst examplöe with etching Ganzos, their 440C doesn't seem to like me (or my ferrric chloride), the acid takes long time to show results and if so little holes appear or the surface comes off in flakes, like on this one...

      The gap that appeared was a good starting point for selfmade serrations though. Generally Ganzos are too heavy for my liking, I'm not sure if I'll try another one before finding a good way to drill skeletonizing holes...

    7. By the way, if you want to mod a M021, try to get the black version.
      The camouflage one has a thick paint on it and blade centering is set to that. I was never able to get the blade in the middle with the new scales, no matter what I tried.

    8. Did you start the process by drilling the holes first as Keyman suggets?

      Thanks for the suggestion about the M021!

    9. Yes, the main steps are the same.
      Start with the pivot hole, put in the pivot, clamp the liner, drill hole at the butt of the knife.

      Esp. for the small holes you should take several steps like keyman; center the hole with a drill bit in the size of the hole in the liner, drill through with a smaller bit (M1-1.5 for the usual M2.5 screws), countersink the hole (not too deep, yet), drill through with the screws diameter (maybe +0.1mm).

      Now fasten that farthest screw with the pivot intalled and center the other holes. When all holes are done you can cut and sand the shape as you like :)

  9. Better this way?

    1. It's much better!
      IMO that satin/semi-polished finish suits the folder better.

  10. I have one of those zieba G2 lookalikes.
    The good:
    # Super elegant sleek looking knife (it's called G(entleman)2 for a reason, I guess)
    # Friggin hard blade steel, that actually takes a decent edge (will never be a razor blade though, but, well, it's not supposed to be one in the first place)
    # Blade steel can be patinaed (if you're into that kind of thing; I am)
    # Pretty slim and light weight for a blade that long
    # hidden/internal stop pin design done right (can't stop being an engineer)

    The so-so:
    # Comes drenched in (smelly) oil, clean before use!
    # For me, the engraved skyline sucks (I buy clones/fakes whatever as long as there is no (false) brandname/logo etc. on it, but no counterfeits ... this one was rather borderline)

    The bad:
    # As many many frame lock folding knifes, this one comes with ridiculously low lock bar tension, which can easily be dealt with, but ...
    # This front flipper design only works due to the ridiculously low lock bar tension; that is, if you want to open the knife in one whooosh with your index finger; use your thumb and lock bar tension can be high as hell (but that motion just doesn't flow for me)
    # The blade steel used (a rather hard one, a bit brittle) and the blade shape don't go well together - the super pointy tip is likely to loose its edge (that is, the tip would break and get dullish)
    # As with a lot of knives, the blade stock is on the thick side - this knife is no slicer (try to cut a fresh apple ... impossible)
    # Due to the symmetric design (pivot in the middle) and the blade being nearly as wide as the handle, the edge of the closed blade is dangerously close to the rear of the handle slabs. Meaning, you could cut yourself when grabbing the knife a bit too strong (happened to me) and things in your pocket (say, keys) could easily touch the edge
    # The downside of the patina thing - this steel needs a little care to prevent rusty spots (not really a big issue - it's nowhere near some kitchen knifes that won't go through one whole onion or tomato without turning brown (anybody have a Tosa-hocho?))

    I removed the front flipper on mine and implanted a back flipper (which involved drilling the blade with a (solid) carbide drill bit - I dulled one in the process). There is no way to upload pictures here, is there?

    1. Thanks a lot for your detailed feedback!
      What do you think it's likely that the blade steel is ZDP189?

      There is a new version of the G2 copy without the skyline pattern on the handle.

      Unfortunately doesn't support uploading pictures here but you can upload your photos to an image hosting site (for example Photobucket) then share the link here.

    2. In case, no one has noticed - here is some info on the steel (not sure how well researched it is):

      Meanwhile, I've also stumbled across one or two of those on dhgate advertised as having a blade of D2 steel ("marked ZDP-189 for better resell") being sold a little cheaper I think

  11. Crappy phone shots and sadly no before-images ...
    # No front flipper anymore, back flipper instead
    # Greyish blade with a somewhat vintage look (meaning, I didn't bother to grind the blade to a nice finish before greying it)
    # Slightly shortened handle (flat bottom where the original would be round), would have liked to do the same thing on the blade side, but there are the grooves for the internal stop pin
    # Somewhat "broken" Ti surface (basically no flat surface(s) anymore, no idea how to call that) heat-anodised to a girly colourful finish (well, tones of blue, purple, gold ...); the grind lines look like shit in the photos - they're much less pronounced in reality and make for some slightly iridescent look.

    ... yea, I know, looks rather tinkered

    Gallery link:

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    1. Wow! That was a quite complex mod!
      How did you attach the new flipper tab to the blade?

    2. I drilled a hole through both flipper and blade, reaching about 2 mm into the blade. A pin goes through there with a relatively tight fit and is glued to both. Time will tell, if this can withstand daily use. Should it come apart, it's no big deal to reglue it - whereas, it was a big deal to initially make a hole into that blade; the carbide drill bits I used there usually go through hardened steel like butter (well, not really butter, but, you know).

      So, as for the steel - from what I've read, it could very well be ZDP-189 (usually really hard, tends to rust just a little, takes a patina, may chip if ground to a too narrow angle (requires an edge at about 40° or a little more), won't become or stay razor-sharp but is supposed to keep a good working edge for a long time - no long time experience here, though).

      I'd buy another one, if there was a back flipper version or an easy way to do this again, but with what few (and rather rubbish) tools I have, I'm not going to try again.

    3. Can you tell me how you achieved that anodising?
      To me it's not girly colorful but rather Aquanan-esque.
      So yeah, I like it :)

    4. Not sure where to start (that is, how much detail you need).

      Theory: Basically, "anodising titanium" means to create a layer of titanium oxide on the surface. With titanium, this oxide layer will show a certain colour depending on its thickness (and on the surface finish to some degree). There is only a limited number of colours you could get; Not sure about this, but I think, at some point (growing thickness) the colours just repeat, only in a lighter tone (kind of like notes and octaves, maybe). There are several ways to do this; one (the easiest for me) is heating the titanium piece - where a certain surface temperature would then create a certain colour (these are also referred to as tempering colours, I think; unlike tempering colours on steel, those on titanium can withstand quite a bit of (ab)use and won't wear off just from touching).

      How it could be done:
      1. Grind/blast/whatever surface to whatever finish you like as a "base" to start with
      2. Heat to create the base colour (you need to start with "hot" colours, obviously); If you have, you can use an oven-like thingy to get an even colour or - as I do it - go wild with a soldering torch or Bunsen burner
      3. Grind or engrave something fancy into that surface
      4. Heat again to colour whatever you made in step 3 - you need to move to "cooler" colours now; otherwise you would end up having the same colour everywhere
      5. Repeat if you like ...

      Something like that. Try and you might find out interesting things, like, how a surface with grind lines in different directions might show different colours when heated with a torch or how blasted surfaces show matte/satin tones while ground or polished surfaces shine or even sparkle and whatnot. If you can mask parts of the surface with something highly heat resistant, you might create some interesting effects as well ...

      Here is another example
      # Base layer in a golden/bronze/brownish colour (with slight hints of light green and light pink here and there)
      # "Veins" in different tones of mainly blue and purple

      Once more - only crappy phone shots:

    5. Thank you :)

      The details are really interesting, the basics are for the noobs :P

      I've done some Ti anodizing with 9V batteries and some with a blowtorch, I was never thinking about grinding though.

      Next thing I want to try is to copy a motif onto my Malyshev Gnome by using a laser printer. I'd print on shiny magazine paper and iron it onto the Ti (they say it's working for etching on steel, too), then anodize it golden with batteries, remove the toner and heat anodize the rest blue.

      Also I guess I'll re-anodize my Vespa Neon to some of the higher colors, sand the surface to reveil the ground lines and re-anodize it.

      Vespa Neon:

      I had to give some extra tension to the frame lock and decided to heat up the clip, too ;)

      Malyshev Gnome:

      The blue is fading away much quicker then on any other knife, I hope the crystalisation effect of the heating process will make it a bit more stable when i redo it.

      Boker Plus Manaro Bulls Eye Grip (why not The Interference?)

      blowtorched, inlc. pivot&screws

      And my first try, the Kevin John (Chris Reeve) TiLock clone:

    6. Electro anodising is the way to go for even and reproducible colours. I've wanted to try that for some time now, but never got any further than looking for affordable lab power supplies on ebay ...

      What did you use to create the "splashes" on the TiLock clone?

    7. I used glue from job, I0ve just let it run over the surface with the idea in mind that if it sux I can still remove it with a scotchpad and do it again. I like it though so I won't destroy it (too soon ;) .
      I've found a 120V power supply on aliexpress for ~$80 but that's a bit too much for me atm. For the TiLock I used 3 or 4 batteries for blue, and one less for purple. I removed the pointy tip on the clip and dip-anodized it magenta and golden with 6-7 batteries (the longer it stays in the solution, the "higher" color you get).

  12. You have pretty good skills if you could drill a hole into that blade. Good job! :)